Shedding light on suncare performance and formulation challenges
Bio-based solutions for personal care
Shell Chemicals works with customers to implement flexible chemical solutions that can help businesses manufacture personal care products more sustainably without compromising quality or performance.
Consumers are increasingly aware of skin health and the harmful effects of UV radiation. As a result, SPF-containing products, including sunscreens and creams, are more popular than ever (CNN, 2023).
These shifting attitudes drive steady market growth: the global sun protection market, which includes adult sunscreens, sun sprays and after-sun lotions, is expected to hit $13.5 billion by 2028, up from $7.8 billion in 2020 (Statista, 2023). This presents opportunities for personal care brands that take into consideration emerging consumer preferences.
Consumers鈥� rising expectations for suncare products
Companies are responding to consumers鈥� growing demands to make suncare formulations more effective and suitable for everyday use.
1. Beautification and protection 鈥� consumers want the best of both
While protection is a top priority, consumers also want their skin and products to look and feel good. That鈥檚 why many manufacturers formulate sunscreens with additional beauty benefits, such as deep hydration and improved skin appearance, blending the lines between suncare and skincare (Cosmetics Business, 2023; CNN, 2023). This has also spurred texture and visual effect trends, like whipped creams and glowing, dewy or matte finishes (Cosmetics Business, 2023), which present additional considerations for product formulas.
2. Reapplication should be simple and not disturb makeup
Sunscreen users won鈥檛 sacrifice beauty for sun protection and often wear multiple products daily. To meet this demand, manufacturers are developing sunscreen products to ease reapplication without disturbing makeup (Cosmetics Business, 2023). Some cosmetic manufacturers add sun protection to their makeup formulations to offer enhanced protection, though for some consumers this may not eliminate the need for sun care products entirely (New York Times, 2023).
3. Less harmful ingredients are sought after
Consumers gravitate towards sun protection products perceived to be less harmful, driven by 38% of US female beauty and personal care consumers who prefer clean products that minimise environmental impact and skin harm (The Benchmarking Company, 2023; Beauty Packaging, 2023). More brands are incorporating eco-conscious innovations to appeal to these consumers (Beauty Matter, 2022; IBISWorld, 2023).
4. Performance and efficacy outshine the rest
Above all, consumers want to ensure adequate protection against the harmful effects of sun exposure, with a significant increase in demand for proof of efficacy and claims testing disclosures (The Benchmarking Company, 2023; The Benchmarking Company, 2023). In 2018, 62% of consumers expected claims testing disclosures. That number rose to 83% in 2022 (The Benchmarking Company, 2023).
Bright future ahead: Overcome suncare formulation challenges and meet consumer demand
Research and development (R&D) teams face several challenges when developing strategies to formulate sunscreens that balance efficacy, safety and application properties.
1. Feel and scent in sunscreen formulations
It鈥檚 essential to emphasise sensorial qualities when formulating sunscreen products; it has to feel good on the skin. A big challenge is sunscreen formulations that become thick and hard to spread (Cosmetics Design, 2022). Sunscreen also needs to have a pleasant scent. After performance quality, scent is a crucial focus for personal care consumers (Foresight Factory, 2023).
2. Ingredient transparency
Sunscreen formulations must meet efficacy, safety, registration and patent requirements. Some regulations limit the use of ingredients previously critical in sunscreen, such as oxybenzone and homosalate (PubMed, 2021; FDA, 2022; EGW, 2023). Furthermore, consumers rely on product labelling to make purchasing decisions in the personal care space, making it the brand鈥檚 responsibility to educate consumers about ingredient claims as clearly as possible.
3. Chemical structure to aid product performance
Hydroformylation should be considered to help improve the absorption of UV light, along with the stability and compatibility with other ingredients. The structure also impacts versatility in creating varied and flexible product formulations.
While these challenges are multifaceted, there are various strategies for overcoming them. Two key solutions for brands include third-party certifications and bio-based ingredients.
Often designated on product labels and other marketing materials, third-party certifications can help reassure consumers that products meet strict guidelines and are produced in a more sustainable manner. Certifying bodies may provide manufacturers guidance as to how to get and stay certified. Key certifications for the sun care industry include:
- EPA Safer Choice Program: Prioritising non-toxic, more environmentally safe ingredients
- EU Ecolabel and DID Listing: Compliance with high environmental standards, guiding R&D teams toward more sustainable product development
- Kosher Certification: Ensures products meet religious laws, impacting R&D in terms of ingredient selection and processing methods
- OECD Guidelines for Biodegradability: Encouraging developing readily biodegradable products
Bio-based mass balance solutions are available to address scent, feel, performance and other product qualities. For example, Shell NEODOL庐 can help suncare manufacturers with formulation flexibility.
Bio-based Shell NEODOL is compatible with many different ingredients and is shelf stable. The high purity of Shell NEODOL alcohols helps maintain the formulated product colour and does not contribute to yellowing. Bio-based mass balance NEODOL products for sun care are fully third-party certified.
An example formulation below protects while providing a pleasant sensory experience.
Example prototype sunscreen formulation
| Typical sunscreen ingredients | Shell NEODOL庐 options |
|---|---|
| Water (Aqua) | |
| UVA/UVB-filter | |
| C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | Shell NEODOL 25 based solubiliser |
| Glycerin | |
| C12-13 Alkyl lactate | Shell NEODOL 23 based emollient |
| Perfume, preservatives, etc. |
Help meet your sustainability goals
No matter where you are in your sustainability journey, Shell Chemicals can help and allow you to set the pace. We work with our customers to customise a solution that will meet your needs鈥揵e it one or a combination of bio-based, circular and lower-carbon solutions.
Related resources
Collaborate with Shell Chemicals to create custom suncare solutions
Companies are looking to innovate formulations, and blending, emulsification, skin-friendly ingredients and application are all key factors. With help from our experts, suncare manufacturers can get access to reliable feedstock that helps resolve formulation challenges.
Develop your suncare solutions together with a Shell Chemicals expert.
Sources
Asmelash, Leah. "What鈥檚 driving sunscreen鈥檚 big boom." CNN, 2023
https://www.cnn.com/2023/07/19/style/sunscreen-spf-boom-supergoop-cec/index.html
"Sun Protection Worldwide Market Research." Statista, 2023
https://www.statista.com/outlook/cmo/beauty-personal-care/skin-care/sun-protection/worldwide
Allen, Jo. "Cosmetics Business Reveals the Top 5 Sun Care Trends of 2023 in New Report." Cosmetics Business, 2023
https://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/cosmetics-business-reveals-the-top-5-sun-care-trends-of-2023-in-new-report-209283
"Is Makeup Messing Up My Sunscreen?" New York Times, 2023.
https://www.nytimes.com/article/sunscreen-makeup-spf.html
"The Clean Conundrum: Infographic Series #1." The Benchmarking Company, 2023
https://benchmarkingcompany.com/news-archive/the-clean-conundrum-infographic-series-1/
"Sun Protection Products Market Forecasted to Experience Steady Growth." Beauty Packaging, 2023
https://www.beautypackaging.com/contents/view_breaking-news/2023-03-08/sun-protection-products-market-forecasted-to-experience-steady-growth/
Cotterell, Phoebe. "Fun in the Sun: 2023鈥檚 Biggest SPF Trends." Beauty Matter, 2023
https://beautymatter.com/articles/biggest-spf-trends-2023
"Sunscreen Manufacturing in the US - Market Size, Industry Analysis, Trends and Forecasts 2023-2028." IBISWorld, 2023
https://www.ibisworld.com/united-states/market-research-reports/sunscreen-manufacturing-industry/#IndustryStatisticsAndTrends
"Why Claims Matter: Infographic Series #2." The Benchmarking Company, 2023
https://benchmarkingcompany.com/news-archive/why-claims-matter-infographic-series-2/
Cullor, Ravyn. "Challenges in Formulating Natural, Organic Sunscreen Products." Cosmetics Design, 2022
https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2022/06/08/challenges-in-formulating-natural-sunscreen-products
"Bio-Beauty and Personal Care: Ingredients of Concern." Shell Insights and Foresight Factory, 2023
Haney, Christiane and Osterwalder, Uli. "Challenges in Formulating Sunscreen Products." Current Problems in Dermatology and PubMed via National Library of Medicine. 2021
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34698033/#:~:text=Developing%20efficient%20sunscreen%20products%20with,certain%20ingredients%20previously%20considered%20crucial.
"Prohibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics." U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2022
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/prohibited-restricted-ingredients-cosmetics
"The Trouble with Ingredients in Sunscreens." EGW, 2023
https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/